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Magnetic Drills

A magnetic drill clamps itself to steel with an electromagnetic base and drills from that fixed position, bringing pillar-drill accuracy to beams and heavy sections on site. The catalogue holds 4 models.

Magnetic holding and annular cutters

Holding force has to resist the torque of drilling, and it only reaches its rated value on clean, flat steel of sufficient thickness — paint, rust and swarf all weaken it. On thin sheet the magnetic circuit does not close and the machine can slide.

These machines usually take an annular cutter rather than a twist drill: it cuts only the rim of the hole and ejects the slug whole, needing far less force and time than a twist drill of the same diameter.

  • The surface must be clean, flat and thick enough.
  • A safety strap or chain is mandatory vertically and overhead.
  • An annular cutter is much faster than a twist drill of equal size.
  • Cutting fluid improves both cutter life and hole finish.

Frequently Asked Questions

  • What surfaces does a magnetic drill work on?

    Clean, flat ferromagnetic steel of sufficient thickness. Rust, paint and thin sheet weaken the magnetic circuit; it will not hold on stainless or aluminium.

  • How does an annular cutter differ from a twist drill?

    It cuts only the circumference and ejects the slug whole, so it needs far less power and drills much faster at the same diameter.

  • Is a safety strap necessary?

    It is mandatory for vertical and overhead work. The magnet releases if power fails, and the strap or chain stops the machine falling.

  • Is cutting fluid essential?

    In practice yes — it noticeably extends cutter life and leaves a better hole. Many machines carry a fluid reservoir and feed line.