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Drills & Drivers

Drills and drivers make up the largest — and most often confused — part of the power tool range: rotary drills, percussion drills, cordless drill drivers and impact drivers are each built for a different job. This page sets out the differences, what the torque and chuck figures mean, and how to choose a platform on cordless models. The catalogue holds over 280 of them.

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Four machines, four jobs

These four look alike on a listing, but they generate their action in completely different ways, and that decides which materials they belong in.

MachineActionTool holderFor
Rotary drillNoneChuck 1-13 mmTimber, metal, plastic
Percussion drillRidged plates rubbingChuck 1-13 mmBrick, aerated block, light masonry
Cordless drill driverNone, clutch controlledChuck or 1/4"Driving screws, assembly, drilling
Impact driverRotational impact1/4" hexLong screws, seized fasteners

Torque, clutch settings and speed

Cordless drivers quote torque in Nm, and you will see two figures: hard and soft driving torque. The clutch releases the screw at a set torque — that is what stops the head sinking into furniture panels or plasterboard.

Speed comes in two ranges: the low range for torque and drilling, the high range for fast driving. Use high speed on plasterboard, and the low range for large-diameter holes in timber.

  • The clutch is for driving; switch the collar to the drill symbol when drilling.
  • Impact drivers have no clutch — torque arrives as hammer blows.
  • A 13 mm chuck accepts thicker shanks than a 10 mm one.
  • Low speed plus cutting fluid noticeably extends bit life in metal.

When an impact driver is the right tool

An impact driver delivers short, fast blows in the direction of rotation. That produces high torque from a small body with no reaction through the wrist — it drives long timber screws and roofing screws and frees corroded fasteners.

It is not a precision tool: with no clutch it can sink or snap a screw head. Use a clutched drill driver for furniture assembly and an impact driver for roofing and structural work.

Corded or cordless

A corded percussion drill is still the economical answer for long spells of work in one place: unlimited power at low cost. On a jobsite — moving position, on ladders, in short bursts — a cordless model cuts total time considerably.

If you go cordless, choose the platform (12 V, 18 V) before the machine; the same pack runs dozens of that maker's tools and usually outlives the tool it came with.

Frequently Asked Questions

  • Is a percussion drill the same as an impact driver?

    No. A percussion drill hammers along the axis, for drilling masonry. An impact driver hammers in the direction of rotation, for driving screws. One makes holes, the other tightens fasteners.

  • How much torque does a cordless driver need?

    For furniture and plasterboard, 30-45 Nm is enough. For timber framing, heavy screws and mixing, look for 60 Nm and above. Of the two catalogue figures, the higher one is hard driving torque.

  • What does the clutch setting do?

    It releases the screw once a set torque is reached, stopping the head sinking into the material or snapping off. Switching the collar to the drill symbol disables the clutch for drilling.

  • Can a percussion drill be used on concrete?

    For small holes, and in softer materials like brick and aerated block. In concrete it is slow and burns bits; concrete needs an SDS-plus rotary hammer.

  • Why does my keyless chuck slip?

    Usually the bit shank is too thick for the chuck's capacity, or the chuck was not fully tightened. For heavy drilling, a keyed chuck grips more securely.

  • What speed should I drill metal at?

    Low. Drop the speed as the diameter grows and use cutting fluid; at high speed the bit overheats and loses its edge.