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Glass & Tile Bits

Drilling glass and tile has two problems: the bit skating on the glaze and the material cracking from heat. Spear point carbide solves the first, low speed and water cooling the second. The catalogue holds 79 products.

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Choosing a bit and technique

Spear point carbide bits are enough for wall tile and glass. Porcelain, granite and hard natural stone need diamond bits, which abrade rather than cut.

In both cases work with hammer action off and at low speed. A strip of masking tape at the start point stops the bit skating, and water cooling on diamond bits protects both bit and material.

  • Hammer off — hammer drilling cracks tile.
  • Low speed, light pressure.
  • Masking tape at the start point.
  • Water cooling extends diamond bit life considerably.

Frequently Asked Questions

  • Should hammer action be on when drilling tile?

    No, definitely off. Hammer drilling shatters the glaze and cracks the tile. Work at low speed with light pressure.

  • What drills porcelain tile?

    Diamond bits. Spear point carbide is enough for wall tile and glass but dulls quickly in porcelain and granite.

  • The bit skates on the surface — what should I do?

    Stick masking tape at the start point and begin at low speed with light pressure. The tape gives the bit something to bite.

  • Is water cooling essential?

    In practice yes on diamond bits: it extends bit life considerably and stops the material heating and cracking. At small diameters a sponge or syringe is enough.